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Diamond Buying Made Easier > Diamond Shapes > Princess Cut Diamonds

Princess Cut Diamonds


princess diamond shape
Princess Cut Diamonds- These have become increasingly popular within the past few years. This is a "generic name" given to any diamond that is cut in this brilliant cutting style. This cutting style has some variations but they are all grouped under the same generic name. They are available in a square or rectangular shape and are listed as a square or rectangular modified brilliant on diamond grading reports.


Ambar Diamond Company of LA originally developed this cutting style in the early 80's but they marketed it as the Quadrillion Cut. The jewelry manufacturer that I worked for at that time designed and manufactured jewelry pieces for Ambar Diamond, and it was part of the jewelry line that I carried when I was traveling out on the road as a sales rep for the company.


Princess Cut diamonds generally results in a yield of 60 to 65% weight retention from the diamond rough crystal, which is a better weight retention than the about 50% for Round Brilliant Cut diamonds .... so you know that diamond cutters really love that! Often the octahedron shaped diamond rough crystal can be sawn in half, yielding two stones from a single piece of diamond rough, and the sawn surfaces then become the tables of the two resulting Princess Cut diamonds. Depth percentages of 70% to 75% along with large tables (70 to 75%) are quite common.


The weight distribution in these diamonds are more vertical verses the horizontal weight distribution of other diamond shapes. This means that if you have a 1.00ct. square Princess Cut diamond, it will measure about 5.45 to 5.60mm from side to side.... a 1.00ct. Round Brilliant Cut diamond will measure about 6.45 to 6.50mm in diameter. A 1.0mm difference in physical sizes can actually be quite noticeable.... physical size and actual weight are 2 different things. I've seen diamonds that weigh 1.00ct. but have the diameter of a 3/4 carat.


Princess Cut diamonds can just be cut to much deeper amounts than a Round Brilliant Cut diamonds, there is more weight from top to bottom, so it will look smaller than other diamond shapes with the same given carat weight. AGSL (American Gem Society Laboratory offers diamond grading reports with a "Cut" grade. This is a grade based on a measurement of the diamond's optical efficiency. This will help you know that a diamond is being cut as to maximize it's light performance and it is something that can actually be measured and not just being someone's opinion.




princess diamond shape length to width
There isn't a length to width ratio that is proper for Princess Cut diamonds.... if you want a square shape look for a 1.00 - 1.05 to 1 and the rectangular shapes usually only go up to 1.25 to 1.




- Important Take Away Points -
Princess Cut Diamonds


#1- I've seen some Princess Cut diamonds that have been cut in such a way that they have kept a lot of extra weight from the rough and as a result they are not very optically efficient. Table facets that are at 80% or more and extremely thick girdles are not uncommon with Princess Cut diamonds. If I were buying online, I'd look for an AGS diamond grading report with a Cut grade of "AGS Very Good" or better grade. If you are looking at a local jeweler, then comparing diamonds side by side should help you decide.

Table and Total Depths can be up to the mid 70%s and no higher! No 80% tables or total depth!


#2- The sharp, pointed corners do require great care when setting and need to be protected to avoid chipping or cracking. Always ensure that the setting (metal part that holds your diamond) protects the four pointed corners of the diamond.... this is normally a V-shaped prong that usually covers the corners.

I know a local diamond cutter that always has a small pile of Princess Cut diamonds that have been sent in to him from jewelers. The diamonds are in need of having the points recut in order to repair damage that had occured during setting or in normal wear.




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